3080 Ti FTW3 Ultra Hydro Copper Overclocking

alxlwson

You Know Where I Live
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Aug 25, 2013
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So, what's good on these things? Literally can't find a single review on this model, which is weird.
Anyone have any experience?
Hype me up! Gotta wait till Thursday:(
 
You basically get nothing out of overclocking these. You really only get anything just cooling better, and/or undervolting. That's about it. Even then, you're talking 5% gains over what this thing will do anyways given that it has decent cooling. IMO, it's not worth messing with.
 
You basically get nothing out of overclocking these. You really only get anything just cooling better, and/or undervolting. That's about it. Even then, you're talking 5% gains over what this thing will do anyways given that it has decent cooling. IMO, it's not worth messing with.

No kidding. So really just raise power limit in Afterburner and let it eat then?
 
Yes. I have one and in the same boat as you. In fact the opposite. Bring the power meter down unless you want this thing crossing over 400 watts easy blowing more heat out than a fireplace at 1.1 volts. I bring it down to like 85% or 90%to keep the voltage at .90v to keep the heat in check. And by heat I mean the heat it throw out not that the card itself gets hot because it stays very cool between 50-65* degrees never more even on a 100 fahrenheit day.
 
Yes. I have one and in the same boat as you. In fact the opposite. Bring the power meter down unless you want this thing crossing over 400 watts easy blowing more heat out than a fireplace at 1.1 volts. I bring it down to like 85% or 90%to keep the voltage at .90v to keep the heat in check. And by heat I mean the heat it throw out not that the card itself gets hot because it stays very cool between 50-65* degrees never more even on a 100 fahrenheit day.

I don't mind dumping the 400w so long as I'm getting improvements. I'm on a 4k120hz gsync panel
 
From what I've seen (and my own card), +120 to +150 core is usually stable depending on the game. My card seems stable in everything at +135 core, +1200 mem. Metro EE is the most unstable and will eventually crash above +135 core of the games I play (CP2077, FS2020, Metro EE, RDR2, Half Life Alyx, SotTR).
 
No kidding. So really just raise power limit in Afterburner and let it eat then?
This isn't like the 2080ti. Generally, unless you've got monster aftermarket cooling, raising power limit doesn't help much, and can even hurt performance since it's just running hotter with no payoff.

That's why, honestly, I gave up trying to undervolt/etc with these. It just wasn't worth my time when the result in a real world games was basically nothing of note, and you'd only see some marginal single digit % gains benchmarking.
 
This isn't like the 2080ti. Generally, unless you've got monster aftermarket cooling, raising power limit doesn't help much, and can even hurt performance since it's just running hotter with no payoff.

That's why, honestly, I gave up trying to undervolt/etc with these. It just wasn't worth my time when the result in a real world games was basically nothing of note, and you'd only see some marginal single digit % gains benchmarking.

I do have pretty good cooling... I have 540mm of radiator that it's plugging in to.
But I did notice... going to like 2.18GHz on VRAM (so +10%), and ~2035MHz on core didn't even give 5fps in games. That kinda blows my mind.
My 2080Ti had linear gains from stock to ~2050MHz / 9000MHz.
 
I do have pretty good cooling... I have 540mm of radiator that it's plugging in to.
But I did notice... going to like 2.18GHz on VRAM (so +10%), and ~2035MHz on core didn't even give 5fps in games. That kinda blows my mind.
My 2080Ti had linear gains from stock to ~2050MHz / 9000MHz.
Yep. It's not worth it. Only thing that could be worth it is just undervolting and stock clocks just to save on power/heat. That's about it.
 
I hooked the fucking flow up backwards on the card. Wasn't even paying attention. Just hooked it up the same direction it was on the 2080Ti. Looks like EVGA has small arrows etched into the clear acrylic indicating flow. Doesn't appear that there is a jetplate so not sure if I am hurting temps or not.
Played ffvii remake on Steam last night for about an hour. With frames capped at 120/gsync 4k, temps peaked and held steady at 60C.
 
I hooked the fucking flow up backwards on the card. Wasn't even paying attention. Just hooked it up the same direction it was on the 2080Ti. Looks like EVGA has small arrows etched into the clear acrylic indicating flow. Doesn't appear that there is a jetplate so not sure if I am hurting temps or not.
Played ffvii remake on Steam last night for about an hour. With frames capped at 120/gsync 4k, temps peaked and held steady at 60C.

haha, I did the same thing at first, but reversing it made only a 1-2 degree difference for me.

does it look like an EK block?
1657293635045.png
 
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I sold it long ago to another forum member. I was getting low to mid 50s with fans on quiet ( 2 x 360x60mm rads)

Hmm. I'm holding 62, according to the OSD from precisionx1. Not sure if I have the correct sensor selected though.
 
Hmm. I'm holding 62, according to the OSD from precisionx1. Not sure if I have the correct sensor selected though.

That's not unreasonable with the rad area you have. It takes a lot of cooling to keep temps low with these new GPUs. Do you have a water temp sensor?
 
That's not unreasonable with the rad area you have. It takes a lot of cooling to keep temps low with these new GPUs. Do you have a water temp sensor?

I don't. But I can for sure say that exhaust temp is noticeably higher compared to the 325w 2080Ti. CPU temp is up as well.

Actually, I think my pump/res has one built in. I'll check it this evening when we get back from Farmer's Market.
 
Can't tell. iCue sucks ass. Still trying to figure it out. Doesn't label loop temp clearly, but I think 46c. House is at 68f.
 
Can't tell. iCue sucks ass. Still trying to figure it out. Doesn't label loop temp clearly, but I think 46c. House is at 68f.

That is high for water temp IMO. that or your rads / fans can't keep up with the load you have on them. but 5xxmm should be enough for a 3080ti + 5800x. Which pump do you have? I have a corsair XD5 and it had one included, but you had to install it and plug into the motherboard to read the value.
 
I have the xd5 or xd7 combo. Bought a kit straight from corsair with my case. I've always felt that my mobo isn't commanding the pump correctly since the get-go. I've always had it set at 100%... I do know for sure that it's a PWM pump, a D5. The pump/res came assembled from Corsair.
Front- Intake
Bottom- Intake
Rear- Exhaust
Top- Exhaust(caught between light cycles lol, Unicorn vomit(
20220710_190131.jpg
 
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I have the xd5 or xd7 combo. Bought a kit straight from corsair with my case. I've always felt that my mobo isn't commanding the pump correctly since the get-go. I've always had it set at 100%... I do know for sure that it's a PWM pump, a D5. The pump/res came assembled from Corsair.
Front- Intake
Bottom- Intake
Rear- Exhaust
Top- Exhaust(caught between light cycles lol, Unicorn vomit(
View attachment 490898
It looks like the XD5 which is a PWM D5. You may just be radiator limited. I had 2 x 360x60mm(the thicker corsair ones) and to keep it under 40 fans were probably at like 40-50% and I had 4 other fans in the case on top of the 6 on the rads

You may be better off reversing the top rad fans so it's pulling cool air over the rad, right now you're feeding it warm air coming from the 360 in the front as well.
As for the pump, does it read an RPM? Did your kit come with Corsair Commander Pro or something like that?


Here was my setup, before and after correcting flow.

20210804_215433.jpg20210916_130013.jpg20210911_200807.jpg
 
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It looks like the XD5 which is a PWM D5. You may just be radiator limited. I had 2 x 360x60mm(the thicker corsair ones) and to keep it under 40 fans were probably at like 40-50% and I had 4 other fans in the case on top of the 6 on the rads

You may be better off reversing the top rad fans so it's pulling cool air over the rad, right now you're feeding it warm air coming from the 360 in the front as well.
As for the pump, does it read an RPM? Did your kit come with Corsair Commander Pro or something like that?


Here was my setup, before and after correcting flow.

View attachment 490911View attachment 490912View attachment 490913


It did come with the Commander Pro.
 
As a test. Do you have enough connectors to put the fans and the pump on 100%? I would try that to see if you are having a rad issue. You should be good with the rads you have but may have pump speed issues. If you run everything at full tilt and see a dramatic drop in temp then you have a issue with pump speed and/or fan speed. Yes it will be loud but it's for science. LOL. If temp don't drop but a few degrees then I would put the front fans to push out and the rear fan to push in. That would keep both rads pushing cooler air through them. With the front rad having the ports on the bottom. Make sure it doesn't have a air pocket in it.
 
Well, it's probably a guarantee that the front rad has an air pocket.
As you can see in the pic, the fittings on it are on the bottom, because fitment issues.
 
I have 3 rads a 360 front a 360 top and a 120 rear all in push pull. Air pockets when filling coolant yes unless you turn the pump up to %100 then it will push the air pockets out in my experience. Also after experimenting and confirming with other youtube videos the best configuration is to have all of the radiators exhausting and cool air being pulled in from the bottom. It is confirmed the air inside the case is the coolest this way and both the components inside the case and the rads get the best of both worlds as far as cooler air.
 
I have 3 rads a 360 front a 360 top and a 120 rear all in push pull. Air pockets when filling coolant yes unless you turn the pump up to %100 then it will push the air pockets out in my experience. Also after experimenting and confirming with other youtube videos the best configuration is to have all of the radiators exhausting and cool air being pulled in from the bottom. It is confirmed the air inside the case is the coolest this way and both the components inside the case and the rads get the best of both worlds as far as cooler air.

Yeah, 14 fans...no.
Pump is always at 100%
 
What do you mean? What's wrong with 14 fans? Why is your pump always at %100?

Nothing is wrong with 14 fans, that's just not a solution for me.
Because I can't hear it regardless of duty cycle, so I run it at 100%, where it's most efficient.
 
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