I just built in the NR200 for kicks, and it’s a neat case. Vs the M1, its primary strengths for me are the price point and glass panel. Obviously there’s some thermal benefit with the top fans, and greater compatibility for CPU coolers/big gpu, but the perceived size increase is also rather...
If you’re not opposed to running msi afterburner and spending 30 minutes tweaking the voltage curve, you can probably save yourself some noise without sacrificing performance by undervolting
not sure what type of portability you're looking for, but the sliger cerberus x exists. it's twice-ish the volume of the ghost but allows atx motherboards (so TRX40/3990X viable) and atx power supplies if you liquid cool the cpu.
raijintek thetis is pretty small. I thought it was EOL but newegg just restocked (~90 usd). a user over on the sff.net forums has done a number of builds and did a great job of describing his experiences.
if you don’t mind losing some single core performance, you can likely undervolt your chip significantly. use hwinfo64 or ryzen master to see what voltages and clock speeds you get under your typical workloads. you can then set an all core multiplier to match the click speed, and dial down a...
I saw the remnants of that fan bracket on reddit but I’m not sure I’ve seen performance results. How does it fare compared to your 1080ti/accelero setup?
The U9S has similar weight to the heatsink, and the fans are pretty good. You could also ask Noctua for updated mounting hardware and stick the new a12x25 on your existing cooler
Also keep in mind that to use a 140mm fan under the c14s, the psu must be in the ATX position. You can use the normal SFX mounting if you use a 120mm fan instead (and Noctua will be happy to send you clips). Also note that you can only fit a slim fan on top of the c14s in the M1, e.g. a Noctua...
how close of an almost-fit was it on the z390? I have a z370 version which appears to have a slightly shorter vrm heatsink and I’m curious if it’d fit with the board unmodified
Most people that I’ve seen rotate their SFX psu to the “atx” position was to get a bit more room for the C14S’s bottom A14 fan. With the psu in the normal spot, the 140mm fan wouldn’t fit underneath the heatsink. The smaller SFX unit in the front position also creates a gap on the side panel...
While there are no readily available different panels, it is easy enough to swap the cable/ports while keeping the existing panel. I.e. you can remove the existing USB cable but retain the audio and power button. So if you’re fine with type A it’s just a matter of finding an appropriate cable...
Intriguing. If you’re really in the mood…assuming you were already plan to go back to the C14S eventually, I’m curious about how it performs with slim intake on the panel, intake slim + pull a12 underneath, and slim top/fan bottom both in ‘exhaust’. Most reviews seem to only grant a few degrees...
I was hoping that’d be the case. Idle fan up to 300W would be dope at true SFX measurements. Surely it won’t be costlier than the NJ450 ($200 usd)…right?
On the topic of ATX, I’m considering trying to shove a 140mm length one into my M1 (Seasonic Focus). I want to do this because 1.) I find my Corsair Sf450 plat loud under load 2.) that unit is still within the return window 3.) reviews make it look like the 600 won’t be better 4.) I can grab an...