Dell Alienware AW3423DWF 34″ QD-OLED 165Hz FreeSync Premium Pro (3440 x 1440)

What chair are you using btw ? I'm using a SecretLab Titan 2020 Softweave, which I love btw; it helped a ton for my lower back pain.
Herman Miller Embody. It’s a step up from the old aeron but I still don’t last a full 8 hour day with a degenerative disc at L5-S1 even if I alternate sit and stand.
 
is their any software to turn this monitor in to 3d, i still have the glasses from my last 3d tv
 
Someone on reddit figured out how to reliably get the DWF to run at 165Hz 10 bits using CRU or the Nvidia control panel with Total Pixels set to Horizontal: 3520, Vertical: 1475. This works, but it has a nasty side effect of preventing your GPU memory to downclock; on a mutli display setup using a 3080 at least. This doubles the idle power consumption from ~40watts to ~80watts.

I've been playing with trying to match my side screen timings, but that did not fix it. It works fine if I use the DWF alone though, so that's really good news for those on a single display setup.
 
Damn, I ran panel refresh (the hour-long one) before learning that I was only supposed to do that only once per year because, supposedly, it reduced life span of OLED displays. Was that true? Did I degrade image quality by running panel refresh? I didn't expect this monitor to last more than 3 years or so. I hope one panel refresh didn't do much damage...

Any word on firmware update that fixes HDR tonemapping?
 
Damn, I ran panel refresh (the hour-long one) before learning that I was only supposed to do that only once per year because, supposedly, it reduced life span of OLED displays. Was that true? Did I degrade image quality by running panel refresh? I didn't expect this monitor to last more than 3 years or so. I hope one panel refresh didn't do much damage...

Any word on firmware update that fixes HDR tonemapping?
From a reddit post:

"Q: What is the purpose of the Pixel Refresh function?
A: Regardless of what you may have read or told, the main purpose of the Pixel Refresh function is NOT to minimize the Image Retention or Burn-In effects. The fact that Pixel Refresh has an effect on the Image Retention or Burn-In is a positive side-effect, but NOT the main purpose of this function. The main Pixel Refresh function purpose is to deal with the natural unevenness of the brightness of the OLED pixels in time. That unevenness needs to be leveled so the panel has the same brightness all over its surface so that the entire panel ages in a uniform manner. There is no need to manually run Pixel Refresh, just let the TV execute this function automatically!"​

So, it normalizes the brightness of the pixels. Depending on how exactly the process determines how each pixel needs to be adjusted relative to each other, my guess would be that it wouldn't do much of anything if all your pixels are still brand new and able to emit at their max brightness. So I wouldn't be too worried if I were you.

We're all still waiting on that firmware. I was kind of expected it yesterday, on the 20th, looking at the dates of the other updates in previous months, but alas all we got yesterday was a command center update.
 
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From a reddit post:

"Q: What is the purpose of the Pixel Refresh function?
A: Regardless of what you may have read or told, the main purpose of the Pixel Refresh function is NOT to minimize the Image Retention or Burn-In effects. The fact that Pixel Refresh has an effect on the Image Retention or Burn-In is a positive side-effect, but NOT the main purpose of this function. The main Pixel Refresh function purpose is to deal with the natural unevenness of the brightness of the OLED pixels in time. That unevenness needs to be leveled so the panel has the same brightness all over its surface so that the entire panel ages in a uniform manner. There is no need to manually run Pixel Refresh, just let the TV execute this function automatically!"​

So, it normalizes the brightness of the pixels. Depending on how exactly the process determines how each pixel needs to be adjusted relative to each other, my guess would be that it wouldn't do much of anything if all your pixels are still brand new and able to emit at their max brightness. So I wouldn't be too worried if I were you.

We're all still waiting on that firmware. I was kind of expected it yesterday, on the 20th, looking at the dates of the other updates in previous months, but alas all we got yesterday was a command center update.

I ran the Panel Refresh, not the Pixel Refresh. That is why I was worried. How are they different?
 
 
I ran the Panel Refresh, not the Pixel Refresh. That is why I was worried. How are they different?
The explanation I posted was for the Panel Refresh, the one that takes an hours to run. I do not know what the pixel refresh does, the one that happens every 4 hours and last a couple of minutes. If I was to speculate, I'd guess that both play with the brightness of the pixels, but using a different algorithms and parameters to do whatever they do.
 
The firmware update is out: M3B103
Fixes & Enhancements
1. Fix HDR handling and improve performance (whitewash, overblown)
I haven't had time to play with it yet, but from what others are saying it's fixing a lot of things and most of all now follow modified CRU HDR metadata values. I'm interested in seeing how the EOTF curve looks like on this firmware.
 
Based on what people are reporting so far, it's still clipping HDR at 500 nits. The fix just eliminates the need to use the console mode and source tone mapping setting. Seems like the DW (rather than DWF) is still the way to go for the best HDR.
 
I've been playing with it and if you use CRU to modify the metadata for Max Luminance at 139 and Max frame-avg at 139, Windows 11 shows the peak brightness at 1015 nits in the control panel and it works really well in games with the monitor set to HDR1000 at the default 75 contrast. I tested it with Cyberpunk, Halo Infinite, Horizon Dawn, Mass Effect Legendary, Ori and the Will of the Wisp, Hellblades, Guardian of the Galaxy, Dyson Sphere and Stellaris with AutoHDR. All of them looked pretty much like I would expect them to look. The highlights on the bridge in Mass Effect in particular looks like how I remember it on the DW when I had it. The calibration tools in all those games worked as expected, showing stuff all the way to ~1000 nits.

The windows calibration app still doesn't work past 510nits for some reasons though. That doesn't really matter if you can manually set the values with CRU and have it work fine with AutoHDR.

So far, I'm quite optimistic with what I'm seeing.

Edit: Yah, sadly this was all mostly placebo effect, so people of the future you can disregards the CRU changes.
 
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I've been playing with it and if you use CRU to modify the metadata for Max Luminance at 139 and Max frame-avg at 139, Windows 11 shows the peak brightness at 1015 nits in the control panel and it works really well in games with the monitor set to HDR1000 at the default 75 contrast. I tested it with Cyberpunk, Halo Infinite, Horizon Dawn, Mass Effect Legendary, Ori and the Will of the Wisp, Hellblades, Guardian of the Galaxy, Dyson Sphere and Stellaris with AutoHDR. All of them looked pretty much like I would expect them to look. The highlights on the bridge in Mass Effect in particular looks like how I remember it on the DW when I had it. The calibration tools in all those games worked as expected, showing stuff all the way to ~1000 nits.

The windows calibration app still doesn't work past 510nits for some reasons though. That doesn't really matter if you can manually set the values with CRU and have it work fine with AutoHDR.

So far, I'm quite optimistic with what I'm seeing.

That's good - thanks for reporting your experience. I wonder why you need to use the Custom Resolution Utility, and the monitor doesn't handle things correctly without this tweak.
 
That's good - thanks for reporting your experience. I wonder why you need to use the Custom Resolution Utility, and the monitor doesn't handle things correctly without this tweak.
VESA DisplayHDR Test also shows the right values now.

As to why you need CRU to make it work properly, your guess is as good as mine. My first though was that they couldn't change the default to such a degree after shipping the product in case some people preferred how it looked before... What would make more sense though is that the monitor may not be capable of changing the HDR static metadata base on which HDR mode you're using. So they baked in HDR True Black values and you gotta change that manually if you want to use HDR 1000.
 
What would make more sense though is that the monitor may not be capable of changing the HDR static metadata base on which HDR mode you're using. So they baked in HDR True Black values and you gotta change that manually if you want to use HDR 1000.

Any idea why they are able to do it on the DW, but not the DWF? The DW doesn't seem to have this problem.
 
So what settings and values do I need for accurate HDR image on DWF? What settings and values do I need in Windows (10)? CRU? I am using Creator Mode with sRGB because HDR confuses me...
 
So what settings and values do I need for accurate HDR image on DWF? What settings and values do I need in Windows (10)? CRU? I am using Creator Mode with sRGB because HDR confuses me...
If you're not using HDR, then have you tried to set it to Creator Mode, DCI-P3, Gamma at 2.4, Brightness and Contrast at 75 each ?
 
Yah, it seems like EOTF is still not fixed. Ohh well, the wait continues!
 
Yah, it seems like EOTF is still not fixed. Ohh well, the wait continues!
Doesn’t look like the green blinking LED is fixed either when you disable the white LED. :(

Nearly two months of no signal drops on the latest DP cable though!
 
Doesn’t look like the green blinking LED is fixed either when you disable the white LED. :(

Nearly two months of no signal drops on the latest DP cable though!
That's good news for the cable. I still loose signal when I get up from my chair from time to time, but since it has been like that for years I'm use to it.

As for the LED bug, you might want to drop a message on the Alienware forum about it. It's such a fringe bug, it'll be hard to get exposure for it.
 
If you're not using HDR, then have you tried to set it to Creator Mode, DCI-P3, Gamma at 2.4, Brightness and Contrast at 75 each ?

I wanted to try HDR again because last time the supposedly calibrated predefined settngs were crushing blacks and a bunch of other colors in games. Colors were vibrant, but not as detailed.

Seems like the most important stuff wasn't fixed...
 
Yah, it seems like EOTF is still not fixed. Ohh well, the wait continues!

Is SDR EOTF messed up as well? AW3423DWF supposedly had more accurate calibration than AW3423DW, but then reviews started showing messed up HDR and it all got confusing...

There are several HDR modes on this monitor? Which one to use and why? Is it accurate? Should I enable HDR in Windows 10 as well?
 
Hi there. Please help! :( I was working with my brand-new monitor (I opened it yesterday) and all of a sudden, the monitor went into a screen changing colors (red, blue, black, white, green) cycle and stopped responding. I turned it off, disconnect it from the power, disconnect/connect display port cables and HDMI, tried with two computers and tried without any cable connected (just the power cable) and all the monitor's screen does is keep changing through those colors. I press the joystick, I turned it to the left for 5 seconds et al. and no menu, no nothing, it just keeps repeating the cycle. Once the "cycle" ends, if I press the joystick the cycle restarts and when I connect or disconnect any hdmi or displayport cable, the cycle stops going, the screen goes to black and then the "cycle" begins!

Any light of what could be happening? Is the monitor defective? I bought it from AMAZON a month ago, couldn't get the time to open it and, alas, just today my return period ended!!

I would like to know if there is any solution? Have this happened to any of you? Thank you very much!!
 
Is SDR EOTF messed up as well? AW3423DWF supposedly had more accurate calibration than AW3423DW, but then reviews started showing messed up HDR and it all got confusing...

There are several HDR modes on this monitor? Which one to use and why? Is it accurate? Should I enable HDR in Windows 10 as well?
I don't think SDR as any problem on the DWF. From all I've seen, it is accurate, even more so then the DW. The EOTF problem is only for HDR 1000. HDR True Black is mostly fine as shown by these graphs.

The other modes were not really useful; I don't know if they changed any of them with the last update. They used to mess up the saturation too much and just lowered the quality of the image. The only two options peoples have been using is DisplayHDR True Black and HDR Peak 1000, as shown in all the reviews. At the moment the most accurate is DisplayHDR True Black. If you want to maximize highlights, you can use HDR Peak 1000. Play with both and choose for yourself which one you prefer; there's no right answer here, it comes down to what you prefer :) Note that some people like to use Dell Display Manager app to automatically switch between modes depending on what they're doing.

As for Windows 10, I would highly recommend switching to Windows 11 if you're able. It just has a better implementation for HDR handling and AutoHDR is pretty cool. If you're stuck on Windows 10, you can enable it yes, I did use it for a while and it worked fine. Either way, you'll want to switch it on and off based on what you're doing. Personally I almost always keep it on, but that's because I'm on a multi display setup and mostly use the DWF for content consumption.
 
BTW, about CRU, the "correct" settings would be 139/79/2. So only changing the max luminance value and keeping the other two as is.
 
Hi there. Please help! :( I was working with my brand-new monitor (I opened it yesterday) and all of a sudden, the monitor went into a screen changing colors (red, blue, black, white, green) cycle and stopped responding. I turned it off, disconnect it from the power, disconnect/connect display port cables and HDMI, tried with two computers and tried without any cable connected (just the power cable) and all the monitor's screen does is keep changing through those colors. I press the joystick, I turned it to the left for 5 seconds et al. and no menu, no nothing, it just keeps repeating the cycle. Once the "cycle" ends, if I press the joystick the cycle restarts and when I connect or disconnect any hdmi or displayport cable, the cycle stops going, the screen goes to black and then the "cycle" begins!

Any light of what could be happening? Is the monitor defective? I bought it from AMAZON a month ago, couldn't get the time to open it and, alas, just today my return period ended!!

I would like to know if there is any solution? Have this happened to any of you? Thank you very much!!
That sucks!! First though would be to call DELL, if you're lucky and talk to a competent tech they maybe able to tell your the manoeuvre to reset it. You're the first person I've read this happening too with the DWF.

Else, you may have to ask for a replacement from them...
 
Holy crap, I had a painting fall down and it rubbed display with its corner... Now there is a mark visible with naked eye when display is off, but I can't see it when when display is turned on, regardless of color, lack of color (black) or patterns, even if I look for it. THIS SUCKS... $1100 down the drain.

Does Dell provide partial warranty for events like this? Is it possible to get outer screen replacement? Or at least polish is somehow?
 
Does anyone know whether this monitor has anti-glare coating? If I can remove it, I can remove the scratch, I think.
 
This guy on reddit actually did it on the DW a couple of months ago. If you have the patience and talent, you may be able to do it as well. You'll end up with a mirror though!

At the same time, if you can't see the scratch in action, is it worth the trouble ?
 
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Scratch situation got much worse because the item that scratched the screen had paint and left paint on the screen. I ended up using Goo Gone and rubbing alcohol and acetone. The results were discoloration in worked-on places that couldn't be rubbed away, but I already considered this monitor FUBAR.

There is indeed a thin layer that can be peeled off, but in bits and pieces. I also can't figure out how to disassemble the panel... There are 4 screws where the stand attaches, but that's it... That Reddit post means there is still hope, but it looks like the panel in that photo is not disassembled either. I am trying the wet-towels 24-hours method, but I bet water is getting inside... That Reddit user also has no instructions on how to do it or which method to use. 24-hour soak? 3-hour soak?

Thank you for finding that thread for me!
 
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I got about 1/15 off in about 15-20 minutes, but this is a very painful process. I can only take it off in bits and pieces. Once coating becomes dry, it becomes almost impossible to continue removal... Crazy...
 
Makre sure to take some pictures once your done! You may end up with an image quality upgrade.
 
This model is now being outclassed by the MSI's which got everything you need for a 34" UW OLED monitor.
 
Makre sure to take some pictures once your done! You may end up with an image quality upgrade.

I did it! After getting a sharper putty knife, I just went at it and got it done in about 2 hours. The metal on the knife now has scratches on it, but the glass is flawless, hard and sturdy as hell. Colors are indeed richer now and black are deeper without the anti-glare film, but I wonder how much did it throw off color accuracy.
 
I did it! After getting a sharper putty knife, I just went at it and got it done in about 2 hours. The metal on the knife now has scratches on it, but the glass is flawless, hard and sturdy as hell. Colors are indeed richer now and black are deeper without the anti-glare film, but I wonder how much did it throw off color accuracy.
That's awesome! At this point, if I were you I would just enjoy the thing... and remove any painting on the walls surrounding it. ;)
 
On my plasma TV, there is a way to reduce backlight and doing so does not mess up calibration because it has no effect on luminance, gamma, temperature, etc. Are there no such controls on this monitor? I don't have any tools to measure accuracy or whether provided "Contast" and "Brightness" settings make a difference to color accuracy.

I need less light without loss of factory calibration accuracy... I prefer 100-110 range. Otherwise I get eye strain.
 
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Well looks like this firmware improvements were mostly placebo. Although it did improve HDR 400 True Black EOTF tracking and a little bit of the HDR1000 lower part of the curve, it's still overly broken.

Tim's recommendation for HDR 1000 are:
1. Enable Console Mode​
2. Source Tone Map to On​
3. Contrast to ~64%​

CRU peak brightness settings changes have no effect what so ever on his measurements. So he doesn't recommend changing anything there. From my own personal experience, the windows HDR calibration tools sometimes works correctly (mostly after the monitor wakes up from sleep, the calibration tool will show paterns all the way to 1000 nits+ at 75 contrast), which Tim did not mention at all in his video. So I don't know if there is something weird happening with the calibration tools only or with Windows 11.

 
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With new firmware, I tried going from:
- SDR (Creator's Mode + sRGB + Contrast and Brightness @ 75% + Gamma 2.2 + HDR not enabled in Windows)
to
- HDR (Standard Mode + Contrast and Brightness @ 75% + Gamma 2.2 + HDR TrueBlack + HDR enabled in Windows)

...and the only improvement I observed was black levels no longer being crushed like they were with previous firmware.

I tested this monitor's HDR settings I listed above to test HDR in Hellblade. When I selected DCI-P3 for colorspace (in Hellblade Graphics options), colors were way off (accuracy-wise) compared to non-HDR colors, but colors did appear similar to non-HDR color when Rec.2020 was selected in Hellblade Graphics options. Was that how it was supposed to be? HDR appeared to increase range of brightness, but it didn't actually add anything of value to depth perception of the image... SDR looked the best...

A while back, when shopping at MicroCenter, I witnessed the difference between SDR and HDR on LG OLED's models demo-ing some animation/cartoon (Puss in Boots 2) content. HDR looked significantly better than SDR, but the content itself was providing detail through the difference between the lowest black levels and the highest white levels itself rather than through in-between details.

Basically, games like Ori and Will of the Wisps look better with HDR than with SDR, but games with graphical details that rely on in-between grayscale levels look better in SDR than in HDR. Ultimately, game and film content is developed in SDR and afterwards mapped to HDR. Is there any content (games or films) that is created with HDR originally?
 
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