Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master won't power on - (temporary) solution

Anyone tried draining flea power (Unplug / switch off power supply, hold down power button for 5 seconds, connect power, hit button)?
 
Well if the new bios does not fix things, Idea, option or what I would do if this is a frequent problem:
  • Buy a battery holder and a switch
  • Remove battery from motherboard
  • Solder two wires to the motherboard battery socket, very small solder points (temporary, you could probably just use alligator clips for this)
  • Mount switch and new battery holder to a convenient location (for example: mount on back of case or front, drill small hole for switch with the new battery holder mounted inside. Another example have a small external box holding both if you don't want to put a small hole anywhere)
  • Hook it up to the motherboard battery socket and never have to pull anything out or open up your case for this problem
I think after the third time or so I would have done above until Gigabyte fixed the issue if they ever do. I would probably not RMA the board due to how many others also are having this issue.

There's a much easier way to do that.

Use your small switch, but just use a small piece of paper to insulate the side contact on the battery holder.
Then use one lead from your switch on each side of the paper. That will then use the switch to complete or break
contact with the battery holder contact. You could probably super glue the wires to the piece of paper or thin
cardboard. That way you can just slide it into the battery holder with no changes to the mobo.

In the old days I took a slot cover and drilled a hole in it for a switch. I had the switch wired to a jumper that I used to
replace the clear CMOS jumper on the mobo. That way I had a clear CMOS switch on the back of the system before
they started adding that feature to the mobos on the I/O shield.

I think I still have that slot cover with the switch on it in a parts box someplace. Will post a pic if I find it.

.
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
  • Like
Reactions: noko
like this
Hi!
I am having the same problem with my Aorus Master. I have a Ryzen 7 3800X. It happened for the first time the other day out of the blue, and I thought it was a Power Supply issue. I actually got a new PSU and found this page when a new PSU didn't solve my issue. I am on BIOS version F20.
Removing the CMOS battery did the trick for me and it worked for around 2 days; but I started having the same issue again. One thing that immediately solves the problem for me is to remove the 24 pin motherboard connector and put it back on, it's certainly better than having to remove the GPU every single time.
I also opened an RMA request but I first need to find another computer I can use for work.
For me, the red power button LED goes off as soon as the computer turns off.

PS: I have one NVM.e SSD, one SATA SSD, and 2 3.5" SATA HDDs connected.

so for me, I (unnecessarily) completely swapped my power supply which certainly had me remove the 24 pin connector, but the board was still soft bricked. That lead me to trying the battery removal. I think several others of us have experienced the unnecessary psu swap that didn’t fix the issue.
 
so for me, I (unnecessarily) completely swapped my power supply which certainly had me remove the 24 pin connector, but the board was still soft bricked. That lead me to trying the battery removal. I think several others of us have experienced the unnecessary psu swap that didn’t fix the issue.
For me it will be easy. My mobo is in RMA for 4 weeks now. I hear nothing so when they return it and the issue happens again I will bring it back to the shop and change it for an Asus...... it will be for me the last time I buy anything from GB..... Giga Bricked 😡😡😡
 
There's a much easier way to do that.

Use your small switch, but just use a small piece of paper to insulate the side contact on the battery holder.
Then use one lead from your switch on each side of the paper. That will then use the switch to complete or break
contact with the battery holder contact. You could probably super glue the wires to the piece of paper or thin
cardboard. That way you can just slide it into the battery holder with no changes to the mobo.

In the old days I took a slot cover and drilled a hole in it for a switch. I had the switch wired to a jumper that I used to
replace the clear CMOS jumper on the mobo. That way I had a clear CMOS switch on the back of the system before
they started adding that feature to the mobos on the I/O shield.

I think I still have that slot cover with the switch on it in a parts box someplace. Will post a pic if I find it.

.
Very cool and even better.
 
For me it will be easy. My mobo is in RMA for 4 weeks now. I hear nothing so when they return it and the issue happens again I will bring it back to the shop and change it for an Asus...... it will be for me the last time I buy anything from GB..... Giga Bricked 😡😡😡

Gigabyte makes amazing intel boards. Their AMD boards have had issues from time to time - I had one of their NF3 boards that violated the DDR2 spec back then and had nothing but stability problems, and I have one of the worst motherboards ever made on a bulldozer system from them (990FX-UD3)... I stick with others for AMD as a result.
 
Gigabyte makes amazing intel boards. Their AMD boards have had issues from time to time - I had one of their NF3 boards that violated the DDR2 spec back then and had nothing but stability problems, and I have one of the worst motherboards ever made on a bulldozer system from them (990FX-UD3)... I stick with others for AMD as a result.
Yeah, I also have a Gigabyte board running my wife’s i7 9700k rig - bought a week before this one. Not a single hiccup.
 
Yeah, I also have a Gigabyte board running my wife’s i7 9700k rig - bought a week before this one. Not a single hiccup.

I just bought an Aorus Master for my new Z490 setup. I could get an x570 Extreme from them, but nope - waiting for Asus or MSI I think.
 
One thing that immediately solves the problem for me is to remove the 24 pin motherboard connector and put it back on, it's certainly better than having to remove the GPU every single time.
I wish this works for me. What is your boards hw. revision?
 
Since we opt out the DualBios as the culprit, it is clear now that the issue always happens on shutdown process (during or immediately after).

hypothesis: during the shutdown process for some reason motherboard powers down before HDD's fully spin down their plates.
While plates are still rotating (spinning down) electric motor rotation is producing electricity, this electricity could then backfire running
into the motherboards electric circuit and eventually triggering some internal circuit protection (ESD, anti-power-surge, name it...)
which as a consequence doesn't allow motherboard to power up ...

So I was wondering if everyone of us have spinning hard drives in the system.
I personally have 2 of them: 14TB Toshiba N300 and 500GB WD VelociRaptor (the real dinosaur, I know)

Just trying to be imaginative here :)

EDIT: this theory could also apply to EXTERNAL USB enclosures with spinning HDDs.
I have one 1TB WD blue and one 2TB Seagate barracuda drive. I also use a 1TB USB Toshiba drive to transfer media around. No issues to report. They are connect to the hot swap bays on my 011 dynamic XL and are seen as removable drive if it matters any.
 
I wish this works for me. What is your boards hw. revision?
It's 1.0

People that RMA'd their boards -- did you pay for shipping? I'm in Canada and it's going to cost way too much for me to ship it to California
Edit: My computer wouldn't boot when I swapped my PSU either, which made me google my problem and find this thread. I had to remove the CMOS battery the first time, but removing the 24 pin connector did the trick for me the second time.
I am afraid of shutting down my computer now... I overclocked my 3800X and my GPU (Radeon VII) and did a 30 minute stress test, that was perfectly fine. I also didn't shut my computer for around 4 days, and that was also fine.
I don't know why this is happening.
 
Last edited:
i have the same issue
gigabyte x570 master
AMD ryzen 7 3800x
Asus 1080ti oc
nvme , ssd , HDD
bios: F20
it's happening to me every day now
and nothing helps me, I bought 100 battery so every day I must to change after shutdown the PC
i contacted gigabyte, week ago, and no response until now
i bought the board from netherlands , from coolblue
 
Oh no, and i hoped that this issue is fixed with the F20 versions... :(

Do you have ErP enabled? If not, try it with ErP enabled.
 
Oh no, and i hoped that this issue is fixed with the F20 versions... :(

Do you have ErP enabled? If not, try it with ErP enabled.
I enabled ErP over 2 months ago and haven't had one single issue, thank the gods! Worth a shot!
 
I too got into the same issue, with the F20 BIOS version.

I saw that something fishy happened some days ago. I'm using a Corsair K95 RGB keyboard, and it started behaving strangely, switching randomly between led patterns when in use. At first I suspected the keyboard, so I exchanged it with the one of a second computer - and the Corsair ceased to behave weirdly as soon as it was connected to that other computer. Plugging it back on the Aorus, it started to go weird again.

Then, the computer didn't turn on after the night. Fortunately, I found this thread, removed the battery and put it back, and it turned on again.

Now I enabled ErP - hopefully it will prevent the issue from happening again. But I'm now facing two other issues.

The first seems related to when the motherboard powers up USB during boot. In this mode, when my keyboard is plugged in one of the USB3/3.1 ports, it is not working during the boot sequence - though its leds are on, it won't react until the OS detects (and presumably resets) it. When powered by the USB2 ports, it works perfectly - that's thus what I did (A minor nuisance - that keyboard requires 2 USB2 ports to get enough current, compared to a single USB3 port needed).

The second issue is that the computer won't cold-boot more than once. If I turn it off with ErP enabled, then try to turn it back on, I hear a slight 'tick' sound (similar to a small relay clicking on, then off 1-2s later), and nothing happens. I have to unplug the mains from the PSU for a few seconds, plug it back in, and it starts again normally. I solved it for now by using a remote-controlled on/off switch - at least I don't have to get under my desktop each time to un/replug the mains. This is weird, especially given that my PSU (a Seasonic X-650MK3) is explicitely listing ErP compatibility in its features.

At this point, the computer works... But now, I'm hoping that the issue will not happen again in a few days/weeks. I've tried to turn on/off the 'dummy load' BIOS option, but it didn't solve the cold boot issue in ErP mode. There's clearly something very wrong in the design of the motherboard power stage. In both ErP and non-ErP modes, it obviously fails at properly discharge/cut power from some important component, causing this behavior.
 
The second issue is that the computer won't cold-boot more than once. If I turn it off with ErP enabled, then try to turn it back on, I hear a slight 'tick' sound (similar to a small relay clicking on, then off 1-2s later), and nothing happens. I have to unplug the mains from the PSU for a few seconds, plug it back in, and it starts again normally. I solved it for now by using a remote-controlled on/off switch - at least I don't have to get under my desktop each time to un/replug the mains. This is weird, especially given that my PSU (a Seasonic X-650MK3) is explicitely listing ErP compatibility in its features.
This sounds like over-current protection, possibly caused by inrush current (which may be higher with ErP enabled?).
 
Just checking in, I am still on F11 but i flipped to single bios like I said I would 2 weeks ago. No issues, continuing to monitor without changing anything else.
 
This sounds like over-current protection, possibly caused by inrush current (which may be higher with ErP enabled?).
But then I do not understand why the overcurrent protection trips when the computer is turned off, then back on, without unplugging the power cord. The inrush current would be the same regardless when the cord is un/replugged or not before turning the on again.
 
But then I do not understand why the overcurrent protection trips when the computer is turned off, then back on, without unplugging the power cord. The inrush current would be the same regardless when the cord is un/replugged or not before turning the on again.
Maybe it happens at shut down? That's the only thing I can think of.
 
Maybe it happens at shut down? That's the only thing I can think of.
Hi, sorry to appear out of the blue, but have been lurking for a while now (like more than 20 years). I have the same problem on the X570 Master with a 3950x. Ran for several months with no problems at all, but now have had the no power issue 3 times in maybe 6 weeks. Thanks very much to everyone here for the info in this thread - saved me from a long and probably pointless RMA process. Don't want to go to a different type of board as even with this issue I absolutely love this MB.

I don't believe the problem happens at power off, as in all 3 cases my machine was asleep when the problem occurred. When I left the machine the previous night, lights on the memory and onboard power button were on, when I came back the following morning it was completely dead. So in this case the machine had to have lost power when it was asleep. I have only just tried enabling ErP - too early to tell at this point whether it has made a difference. Out of curiosity, has anyone experiencing this problem been running their system on a reasonably high end UPS? Something with pure sine wave output just to eliminate the possibility that it's caused by external power fluctuations?
 
Hi, sorry to appear out of the blue, but have been lurking for a while now (like more than 20 years). I have the same problem on the X570 Master with a 3950x. Ran for several months with no problems at all, but now have had the no power issue 3 times in maybe 6 weeks. Thanks very much to everyone here for the info in this thread - saved me from a long and probably pointless RMA process. Don't want to go to a different type of board as even with this issue I absolutely love this MB.

I don't believe the problem happens at power off, as in all 3 cases my machine was asleep when the problem occurred. When I left the machine the previous night, lights on the memory and onboard power button were on, when I came back the following morning it was completely dead. So in this case the machine had to have lost power when it was asleep. I have only just tried enabling ErP - too early to tell at this point whether it has made a difference. Out of curiosity, has anyone experiencing this problem been running their system on a reasonably high end UPS? Something with pure sine wave output just to eliminate the possibility that it's caused by external power fluctuations?

I usually do not use or need the standby/sleep function, because the system boots so quickly and everything i need opens instantaneously, but last weekend i send it to standby/sleep. It acted exactly the same way like yours, the memory and the onboard power button stayed illuminated, but when i came back after ~1 h everything was off. After tapping the power button it starts normally again and i saw in the event log, that it was not shut down properly. This happend with ErP enabled.
 
Out of curiosity, has anyone experiencing this problem been running their system on a reasonably high end UPS? Something with pure sine wave output just to eliminate the possibility that it's caused by external power fluctuations?
I use APC SmartUPS SMT750I with pure sine wave output on battery. Happened 3 times so far.
Now that I think of it, there is (big) possibility that first time when it happened (after aprox. 6 months of flawless performance) was after the PC was sleeping during the night.
 
Last edited:
Maybe it happens at shut down? That's the only thing I can think of.
Interesting. That would be a rather peculiar issue for sure. The only thing I can think about is trying a different configuration in the power distribution cables, especially the PCI-Ex GPU feeders. Otherwise, I see no other option. Given that the exact same PSU worked well with my previous motherboard (an Asus Z87-WS+4770k), I'm very reluctant to burn more money in a new PSU when it could likely be a motherboard issue.
 
Interesting. That would be a rather peculiar issue for sure. The only thing I can think about is trying a different configuration in the power distribution cables, especially the PCI-Ex GPU feeders. Otherwise, I see no other option. Given that the exact same PSU worked well with my previous motherboard (an Asus Z87-WS+4770k), I'm very reluctant to burn more money in a new PSU when it could likely be a motherboard issue.
Yeah, Id suspect the mb first, myself. But it sounds like the PSU might be the issue in this case, at least partly. I never heard a click when my x370 gigabyte board exhibited the no-power issue, and unplugging from mains, clearing cmos, and removing the battery wasn't 100% guarantee of success.
 
Yeah, Id suspect the mb first, myself. But it sounds like the PSU might be the issue in this case, at least partly. I never heard a click when my x370 gigabyte board exhibited the no-power issue, and unplugging from mains, clearing cmos, and removing the battery wasn't 100% guarantee of success.
It’s definitely not a PSU specific issue. While I’ve still only had this happen twice, once was with the original Corsair 850w that I thought had died, and it happened again with the ASUS Thor replacement unit I (needlessly) bought about a month later.
 
Yeah, Id suspect the mb first, myself. But it sounds like the PSU might be the issue in this case, at least partly. I never heard a click when my x370 gigabyte board exhibited the no-power issue, and unplugging from mains, clearing cmos, and removing the battery wasn't 100% guarantee of success.
Just to be clear: that's obviously not the "no power" issue playing there (I had that no-power issue, and that's what forced me to turn ErP mode on). It is the ErP mode itself causing that click-no-turnon. Bit somehow I can't help thinking both are linked to some sort of design flaw in the motherboard power subsystem.
 
Hi, sorry to appear out of the blue, but have been lurking for a while now (like more than 20 years). I have the same problem on the X570 Master with a 3950x. Ran for several months with no problems at all, but now have had the no power issue 3 times in maybe 6 weeks. Thanks very much to everyone here for the info in this thread - saved me from a long and probably pointless RMA process. Don't want to go to a different type of board as even with this issue I absolutely love this MB.

I don't believe the problem happens at power off, as in all 3 cases my machine was asleep when the problem occurred. When I left the machine the previous night, lights on the memory and onboard power button were on, when I came back the following morning it was completely dead. So in this case the machine had to have lost power when it was asleep. I have only just tried enabling ErP - too early to tell at this point whether it has made a difference. Out of curiosity, has anyone experiencing this problem been running their system on a reasonably high end UPS? Something with pure sine wave output just to eliminate the possibility that it's caused by external power fluctuations?
I had an EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 (which is a decent PSU) when it started happening.
Then I got an Antec HCP-1300 (which is apparently a great PSU), it still does it once in a while.
For me it happens when I turn off the computer (if the onboard power button LED is still on when I turn off the computer, it'll boot fine the next morning/afternoon. If it turns off with the rest of the system, it won't) I don't use the sleep/hibernation mode.)
 
Hi. I been having problems with all the GB boards since 2015. After some years they got the cold boot problem. Anyone tried the ram swap method?

When they start bootlooping, taking out the battery or swapping ram sticks did the trick. But after some time they will not boot at all, no matter what you try.

Seems like a hw problem in all the cases.
 
Out of curiosity, has anyone experiencing this problem been running their system on a reasonably high end UPS? Something with pure sine wave output just to eliminate the possibility that it's caused by external power fluctuations?

I also experienced issue with APC Back-UPS 700VA 230V AVR IEC (BTW, APC is a smelly shit nowadays, I just paid 143EUR to get rid of it and purchased Eaton, because APC continues to produce smell in the room even after one year after purchase. And one year ago I've returned APC Back-UPS BK650EI because of high-frequency squeak)

I read the whole thread but bit confused, could anyone summarize: is "ErP == enabled" helpful? I'm just curious, as my shop already have exchanged Aorus x570 pro for Aorus b550 pro (and returned 40 EUR back) by RMA.
 
Last edited:
My mobo is back form RMA, they mentioned nothing about what was wrong or what they repaired. Build it in again with the water cooling and it is running smooth (no overclock, just the XMP and ERP enabled.......
I turned it on and off several days now and although my heart rate is a little bit higher when I touch the power button.. no problems so far. Btw, bios is f11..... I think i will stick with this for a wile....
keeping you posted.....
 
My mobo is back form RMA, they mentioned nothing about what was wrong or what they repaired. Build it in again with the water cooling and it is running smooth (no overclock, just the XMP and ERP enabled.......
I turned it on and off several days now and although my heart rate is a little bit higher when I touch the power button.. no problems so far. Btw, bios is f11..... I think i will stick with this for a wile....
keeping you posted.....
So they returned you the same motherboard? Are there any signs of intervention on it?
 
So they returned you the same motherboard? Are there any signs of intervention on it?
They returned the same mobo, I noticed that they probably have taken of the backplate because some screw were loose, further nothing .... (Bad service to return a board with loose screws...).....
 
Last edited:
Just checking in on everyone, it's been fairly quiet since the new bios has dropped. I can report I have gone almost 3 months without any issues, and all I did was replace the battery, enable ErP and update to the latest bios. I hope everyone is having similar success!
 
Hi what does ERp ?
ErP mode is another name for a state of BIOS power management features that instructs the motherboard to turn off power to all system components, including USB and Ethernet ports meaning your connected devices will not charge while in a low power state.
 
Just checking in on everyone, it's been fairly quiet since the new bios has dropped. I can report I have gone almost 3 months without any issues, and all I did was replace the battery, enable ErP and update to the latest bios. I hope everyone is having similar success!

Reporting in again...

Well, after several weeks of flawless operation--no more cold boot problems at all--tonight after shutting the box down for a movie I came back to a totally dead motherboard! Oh, yeah. I had been running for weeks with ERP disabled--the bios default. This is the second time the mboard went completely dead--no standby light with ERP disabled--just dead. I really believed I had made my last post here--F20a/b and now F20 seemed very nice...but no, of course not--couldn't be that simple!...;)

I read the post above about removing the 24-pin ATX connector and plugging it back in--and I thought that fixed it! I got the standby light again when I turned the PSU back on--figured it should work--but whether I tried switching the system on from the PWR button on the case or the PWR button on the motherboard--no dice. System went immediately dead, again. It was kind of interesting because after I had unplugged the PSU and turned it off, when I removed and then replaced the 24-pin ATX connector, the standby light flashed red just like it always does normally with ERP off--but it was still a dead mboard. Pulled the CMOS battery, waited 15 minutes, put in a new battery, reattached all peripherals and the system booted right up as it always does--still no cold-booting problems, thankfully.

This is the second time I've had to pull the battery--I replaced it with a new one, immediately, this time, just in case. How long until the next dead mboard/pull-battery event, I wonder? Crazy. Really thought I was done--should have known better, I guess.

To Kph: ERP stands for Energy Reduction Plan, IIRC, and is an EU requirement for PCs, so that when they shut down they consume 0 Watts of power--completely off. No standby light, no wake on LAN, etc. If you disable it as it is the default here in the states, then you get something like a perpetual 1W of power to the mboard standby modes.

Still don't know what is causing this! Grrrrrr....if not for this problem--this would undoubtedly be the best mboard I've ever owned, hands down! Frustrating. Going to run with ERP on, see if it helps!
 
What was wrong with the old one?
Please read through the thread.
The answer is likely nothing was wrong with the battery. There were some theories about possibly weak batteries from factory were causing this but that doesn’t seem like it has been the case as swapped fresh battery boards have still soft bricked. Some folks have swapped them anyway in hopes of making this issue stop more permanently.
 
Back
Top